2008 NESCAR OFFICERS:

2008 NESCAR Officers are: President - David Cushing, Vise President - Ron Bigger, Treasurer / Secretary - Steve Blayney, Race Directors - Shawn Stanger & Frank Husted, Maintenance Directors - Eugene Danley, Matt McPhillips, Ron Bigger, Brad Kirk, PR Special Race Promoters - Scott Stanger, Eugene Danley, Matt McPhillips, Brad Kirk.

How to: Five Fixes for Engine Tuning Troubles:
Sometimes, a nitro engine will play mind games with you, and that can make your nitro experience a bad one. And the more frustrated you get when your engine isn’t running properly, the worse the situation will get. You may get to the point at which you think you’ll never get that engine running, and that’s why we’re here. Engines are relatively simple, and only a limited number of things can go wrong. With these 5 problems solved, you shouldn’t have any trouble getting your engine to run.

1. ENGINE DOESN'T START

If your engine ran fine and now doesn’t even start, chances are, your glow plug is fouled or your Ni-starter has lost its charge. I grab the Ni-starter and stick a plug that I know is good into the end of the starter to see whether it glows properly. If it doesn’t, I know I have to charge or replace the starter battery. If that plug glows, I know that the one in my engine is shot. Your engine may not start after it has been running; in this case, the engine might be too hot to ignite the fuel entering the combustion chamber because of the temporary loss of compression and the fuel vaporizing in the carb. Let the engine cool for a while before you try to restart it.

2. ENGINE IDLES ERRATICALLY

If you’ve had to adjust the low-speed needle and the idle screw a million times, you probably have an air leak. It may be in the engine or the fuel system. Check your empty fuel tank by attaching fuel tubing to the pressure fitting and to the fuel fitting and then submerging it in water. Now pinch one of the fuel lines to pressurize the tank with air, and then blow into the other line. Do you see air bubbles coming out of the tank? If you do, identify where they’re coming from and either replace the tank or seal the leak with silicone. The fuel tubing itself can leak, and finding a hole in a piece of fuel tubing can be a pain, so replace the tubing. A fuel filter may also leak air; remove the filter from your vehicle and make sure that the parts are screwed together tightly and that the O-ring is intact. Last, but not least, your air leak may be somewhere in the engine. Instead of trying to find out where the leak is, just take the engine apart and seal every joint with oxygen-safe gasket sealant. Seal the backplate, the carb and all the joints on the high-speed needle. Check all the O-rings and replace any that look worn.

3. ENGINE RUNS ON THE STARTER BOX BUT DIES WHEN THE VEHICLE HITS THE GROUND OR WHEN YOU HIT THE BRAKES

You have a problem with your clutch. Some part of it is hanging up and causing the engine to spin the cutch bell at idle when it is not making a lot of power. It has enough power to turn the wheels when they are off the ground, but as soon as you stop them from turning in any way, the engine dies. Try rotating the clutch bell while the engine is off and the brake is disengaged. If it doesn’t turn freely, you have a problem. Pull the engine out of your vehicle, disassemble it and inspect every part of the clutch assembly. As you take parts off the engine, check to make sure that they are not broken or worn. Replace parts that you think should be replaced, but if everything checks out, see whether the clutch-bell bearings rotate freely. If the clutch bell doesn’t rotate, replace the bearings. Before you reassemble the clutch, lightly scuff the clutch shoes and the clutch bell with fine sandpaper and clean them with motor spray. You will also want to check and make sure that your motors fly wheel is not hanging below the chasis. When the chasis bottoms out it can kill the motor. If this is the case shim the motor up.

4. ENGINE BOGS DURING THE TRANSITION FROM IDLE TO FULL THROTTLE

First, check the low-speed needle to see whether it’s adjusted properly. Drive the vehicle around for a few seconds to clean out the engine, and then bring the vehicle over and pinch the fuel tubing while the engine is at idle. After a second or two, engine rpm should slowly rise and the engine should shut down. If the engine dies right away, your low-speed needle is set too lean, and if it takes longer than a second or two do anything, it’s set too rich. A setting that’s too rich or too lean will make the engine bog slightly when you get on the throttle. If altering the needle setting doesn’t solve the problem, use a “hotter” glow plug. The fuel may be cooling your existing plug and making it hard for it to ignite the fuel in the combustion chamber.

5. ENGINE SUDDENLY LOSES POWER

Chances are, your air filter is too dirty or your tuned pipe is clogged. If you have either of these problems, you can lean your high-speed needle all you want and your engine’s performance won’t improve because there’s a lack of air or exhaust flow through it. Clean your air filter, relube it with any air-filter lube and you’ll be good to go. If your exhaust is clogged, you’ll have to remove the exhaust pipe and clean it. If your stinger is clogged, pick out the debris while its end is facing downwards so that the debris falls out; if it’s clogged inside, try blowing the debris out with compressed air. Blow the air into the stinger so that the debris can easily flow out through the inlet side of the pipe.

Brushless Motor Maintenance:

Start With a Cleaning - When you sit down between race days to work on your car, there are a few simple tasks you should always perform on your brushless motor. First and foremost, you want to make sure the motor is clean, since dirt and grime can hurt a brushless motor just as much as it can hurt a brushed motor. Use a brush or a cleaning rag to wipe down the surface of the motor, taking care to inspect it for any obvious signs of damage.

Check the Feel - Since brushless motors don't provide a ton of resistance when you spin them, it is usually very easy to see if something is causing your motor to seize up. With the motor cleaned and out of the car, spin the armature to feel for any grittiness or "notchy" behavior. If you sense that it is not spinning as freely as it should, you should probably disassemble the motor and clean it out.

Inspect the Wiring - Your brushless motor has quite a few wires coming out of it, and each and every one of them is very important. Hopefully your wiring is adequately protected from moving parts and outside influences, but even if so, accidents can happen and wires can become torn or frayed. Make sure that none of the wires are exposed, and that none are in danger of contacting one another. If the insulation on any wire has been torn or the inside exposed, use electrical tape to re-insulate it.

Lubricate - The main point of contact between your motor and the outside world is its partially exposed bearing, and you want it to spin as freely as possible. After cleaning the motor, be sure to add a drop or two of thin bearing lubricant to the bearing. The lube will keep it spinning freely and help to ward off debris.

Disassembly - From time to time, or if you ever notice a problem, you should disassemble your brushless motor to inspect and clean it. Don't be afraid; the process is really quite simple, and much more so than a brushed motor.

Remove your motor from the vehicle, and unsolder the wires and disconnect the wiring harness if possible. While you're at it, clean the area around the motor mount and anywhere else that dirt and debris may collect.

Disassemble - Most brushless motors are quick and easy to disassemble, with a few hex-head screws on either the front or rear of the case, or possibly both. Take your motor apart and lay the parts out in front of you.

Clean - Just like a brushed motor, dirt and grime can build up inside the can of a brushless motor, so clean both the rotating parts and the can itself. Spray the can with motor spray and allow it to dry before reassembly. Wipe down the armature as well.

Re-Lube - Since you just sprayed down the can and the bearings along with it, you'll need to re-lubricate them. Put a few drops of thin bearing lubricant in each bearing. If after spraying and re-lubing a bearing it still feels gritty or seizes up, it needs to be replaced before running again.

Bearing replacement - Should you need to replace a bearing, first consult with your motor's manufacturer to make sure that you have the right size in mind. Try to find a replacement bearing with a metal shield, as this will resist damage and debris more effectively than a rubber or Teflon shield. If you have one, use a bearing pusher to pop the bearing out of the can, and then push the replacement back into place. Add a drop or two of bearing lube to the new bearing as well. Reassembly and Install - You're all done! Put your motor back together and then reinstall it in your vehicle, as good as new.

Piston and Sleeve:

How do you know when a piston & sleeve set needs resizing or replaced?

1. The engine flames out continuously after reaching operating temperature.

2. Constant overheating / cannot maintain normal engine temperature while all else has not changed.

3. With the engine at operating temperature you are able to easily roll the flywheel over with light finger pressure. (Glow plug installed)

4. Looking at exhaust port and rolling the flywheel over, piston travels well past porting windows before any compression is felt.

5. With piston & sleeve removed, piston pushes well past TDC wear marks on sleeve.

These three websites that would be good places to have resizing done.

RayAracing OSROCKET RACING RED LINE

Nitro Maintenance Checklist:

Nitro Vehicle Maintenance Checklist

Ready to run nitro vehicles are more popular now than ever, but many RTR owners don't know much about the internal workings of their vehicles because they didn't build them. Even though the vehicles come RTR doesn't mean that they will never require maintenance.

Quick visual check. Look closely at all moving parts and for obvious problems.

Check all major fasteners. Make sure all the screws that hold the bulkheads, drive train and engine on the chassis are not loose. Do a full vehicle. Check at least once a month and a visual check before each run.

Wiggle all the suspension and steering parts. Be sure that all the components are firmly attached and be sure that the parts only move in the direction they were intended to move.

Spin the drive train. Any degree of drive train binding or poor brake adjustment can lead to excessive engine temperature and poor all around performance. Hold the vehicle off the ground and spin the wheels. There shouldn't be any resistance or tight spots. If there is a problem and it is not fixed it could lead to engine overheating or clutch damage. Some points to check are spur gear mesh, faulty clutch, bad bearing, or a brake assembly that binds.

Check your transmitter and transmitter batteries. This is the most common cause of really expensive crashes. Most radios have some type of battery meter but most RTR's don't have this system for the receiver batteries. Don't rely on average alkaline AA batteries for more than two hours of run time. Monster trucks use even more battery power because the servos have to strain more to turn the oversize tires.

Inspect the fuel and exhaust systems. Make sure that fuel lines are connected in the right places, and check them for cracks and slits. These small problems will lead to endless tuning problems. Make sure that the fuel tank filler cap is seated properly to ensure proper pressure is kept in the fuel system.

Radio System FAQ:

When I am using my radio for programming, setup within my house, experimenting, etc, is there anything special I should do?

With ANY transmitter (modulared or non-modular), you should ALWAYS extend your antenna to at least the bottom or first segment when turning the radio on. If you leave the radio on with the antenna collapsed for more than 5 or 10 minutes, the internal components will be unnecessarily exposed to incorrect matching of the output circuit to the antenna. This may shorten the life or even immediately damage the output circuitry of the transmitter.

Associated Factory Team RC8T Truggy!:

It's finally here - Team Associated's new Factory Team RC8T, a 1/8-scale racing truggy based on their successful RC8 platform! The Factory Team RC8T was designed to be a world-class competition truggy, so from the start it was equipped with top of the line features from the AE Factory Team. These features include:

- Factory assembled shocks, diffs and turnbuckles, built with Factory Team shock and diff fluids. - Factory Team, Big Bore, threaded, hard-coated shocks with 16mm six-hole pistons and - 4mm gold shock shafts. - Factory Team Aluminum Top Plate and Steering Rack. - Factory Team chassis braces with integrated center stiffener. - 4mm woven carbon fiber shock towers. - Blue aluminum wheel hexes featuring captured drive pins and nyloc wheel nuts. - 4.30:1 ratio. - FFC "Free Float Caliper" brake-system. - Two-piece split-center diff mount. - Wing angle and position is fully adjustable. - High-torque capacity three-shoe aluminum clutch. - Full CVAs with captured CVA pins. - Full ball bearing drivetrain and steering. - Metric alloy hardware throughout. - Milled 3mm black hard-coated 7075 aluminum chassis. - Factory Team blue titanium turnbuckles. - Part #80910 Factory Team RC8T TruggyKit.

MSRP: $999.99

Availability: July 2008

www.teamassociated.com

New Traxxas E-Revo:

Electric Race Ready Monster Truck

Available Late May, 2008

Click here to see the NEW TRAXXAS E-REVO

Once again, Traxxas has broken new ground with unprecedented innovation and performance. The New E-Revo is the most advanced electric racing monster truck ever created. The 6-time National Champion REVO is already the pinnacle of engineering in the Nitro arena and now E-Revo breaks open an entire new category that embraces today’s electric technology. Built from the start to be electric, E-Revo harnesses all the advantages that electric power brings to the race. The integrated battery compartments position the weight of the batteries as low and as close to the centerline of the chassis as possible. A smooth center skid plate adds strength and beauty while it shields critical driveline components. The low center of gravity, balanced weight distribution, and incredible torsional rigidity yields the best handling Revo platform ever.

The proven 16.8 volt EVX-2 power system delivers massive torque through twin Titan 550 motors. Always looking ahead, Traxxas engineers made E-Revo truly brushless ready with a driveline that’s been proven tough for durability at the extreme with brutal 50+mph 6S LiPo power and custom brushless motors from the aftermarket. The unique battery compartments are easily scalable with built-in features to adapt for multiple battery configurations. A separate motor plate was engineered for a clean, low-slung single motor installation. Of course, E-Revo retains all the benefits of the exclusive linkage based suspension system including the most suspension travel possible, tunable progressive damping, independent ride height adjustment, and the absolute highest level of control for any situation. Hard-anodized Teflon coated shocks with TiN shafts, and dual digital waterproof steering servos have been added to further sharpen the handling. Off the racetrack, E-Revo is our most recent model to be equipped with exclusive fully water-sealed electronics. Only Traxxas makes it possible to run through water, mud, snow and other wet conditions. E-Revo is offered fully assembled and Ready-To-Race with the TQ radio system and EVX-2 electronic speed control.

Features

• Amazing new chassis design with integrated dual battery compartments • Quick release battery doors • Battery cooling vents • Scalable battery compartments from sport packs to brutal 6S LiPo power • Smooth center skid plate shields the driveline • Weather-sealed electronics for running in water, mud, and snow. • EVX-2 16.8-volt FWD/REV Electronic Speed Control with patent pending Training Mode • Dual Titan® 550 motors • Dual digital waterproof steering servos deliver 125 oz-in of torque & 0.16-sec transit time • Hard-anodized Teflon-coated shock bodies with TiN coated shock shafts • 4-Channel micro receiver • Brushless-ready 2-speed transmission with metal center idler gear • Sealed pivot ball suspension • Sealed limited slip differentials • Dual-servo steering system • Hex hardware throughout • 3.8” black chrome Gemini wheels • 3.8” Talon tires • Sleek new pe-painted body design • Adjustable rear wing • Compatible with many Revo Platinum upgrades • Traxxas innovation built in! • Ready-To-Race

ANTI-OFFROAD-ROLL-OVERS:

Since off-road racing is in full swing, many of you have probably hit some sort of beat-up, rutted race surface that is sending your chassis into a barrel roll when sliding through a corner. To help reduce this rollover, cut away the outside row of spikes from all four tires to reduce the sliding traction that they have as your tire rolls over the ruts. The removed row of spikes won’t dig into the side of the rut anymore, which will help keep your chassis on its wheels and pointing in the right direction.

NOVAK'S NEW SENTRY DATA LOGGER:

Attention drivers! Novak has a product that gives you an in depth, close-up look into how your car is performing. Keep an eye out for the Novak-exclusive Sentry Data Logger. Simply plug it in, and the Data Logger will measure and record information from several tiny sensors placed in your R/C car. The Sentry stores the collected data to be later reviewed on your personal computer. The Sentry’s small size and weight allow it to fit easily inside any R/C car. The Data Logger also operates on very low voltage, so R/C cars can drive like it’s not even there! There are two versions of the Data Logger that complement different types of R/C systems. The Sentry Data Logger (#2000) is ideal for brushless, brushed and gas-powered motors. It includes six sensors that record the temperature in three places, throttle/steering, voltage and RPM in an R/C car. Each sensor is extremely accurate and will give users precise measurements on how their car is performing. In addition to the detachable sensors, each Sentry is equipped with a built-in XY Accelerometer. The Accelerometer measures the G-forces applied to an R/C car, which helps determine the steering setup, suspension, throttle smoothness and severity of a crash. The Sentry Data Logger – Pro (#2010) can also be used with all R/C cars and includes four extra Digital Sensors and Expander Board and a Current Sensor. Each digital temperature sensor is equipped with its own unique address to measure the temperature in multiple areas of a vehicle. The Current Sensor measures the current drawn from the battery to the motor.